CREATIVE SUBSYSTEM: INDONESIA
- Feb 25, 2017
- 3 min read
Kedjora by Ivan Gunawan at Jakarta Fashion Week 2014 (Source: Magazine by Berrybenka)
In one of the modules I'm taking this semester, I have learnt about the Cultural Production System (I would later refer to this as CPS), which is basically a group of people in charge of a cultural product. CPS consists of 3 entities: the creative subsystem, managerial subsystem, and communications subsystem. I personally define them three as designer, business, and media - respectively.
I'm planning on making a series of C.P.S. posts covering some of the regions I'm interested to step into. First up, home country of Indonesia!
From my off-bias perspective, Indonesia is truly a hidden treasure trove in the international fashion designers scene. First, we have a set of ultra-diverse cultures. This provided the existence of kebaya, a traditional Javanese blouse-dress (also prevalent in Peranakan culture across Southeast Asia), and batik and ikat textiles. However, there is a wonderland beyond those traditional garments.
I'll be focusing on young, up-and-coming designers whose works are beyond the traditional. These are some of the ones you need to set your eyes on.
TEX SAVERIO
Source: Art Cocktail
Dubbed the Indonesian Alexander McQueen, Tex Saverio became a household name in Indonesia when Lady Gaga wore one of his designs. You might also be familiar with his wedding dress that made an appearance in Hunger Games: Catching Fire. His works are best described as avant-garde and theatrical with a strong fantasy element. Recently, he has also collaborated with Love, Bonito and showcased his collection at Paris Fashion Week.
PEGGY HARTANTO
Source: pinterest.com
The Surabaya-born, Sydney-educated designer is most known for her clean-cut aesthetic and modern silhouettes. Her clothes have been a favourite of Giuliana Rancic, Chriselle Lim, Zendaya, and Gwen Stefani. She also made the Forbes Asia '30 Under 30 - The Arts' 2016 list and participated in the Paris Fashion Week tradeshow.
HIAN TJEN
Source: wedluxe.com
Make no mistake, this is a Jakarta-based designer. Wedding parties are major in Indonesia (think celebrity singers, pre-wed photoshoots in Europe, thousands of guests in big ballrooms or beachside settings - the phenom literally made it to Crazy Rich Asians), so bridal gowns are highly wanted commodities. Hian Tjen fulfils this gap in the market, with his regal dresses with delicate yet intricate details. He notes Dior's silhouettes, Elie Saab's details, and Ulyana Sergeenko's sophisticated style as inspirations for his custom-made wedding gowns.
TOTON JANUAR
Source: manual.co.id
Culture-meets-contemporary is one way to describe the Makassar-born designer's collections. Trained at the famed Parsons New School of Design, he launched the label TOTON with Haryo Balitar in 2012. He also nabbed the winning spot in the International Woolmark Prize 2016 Asia Regional in Womenswear Category.
RINALDY YUNARDI
Source: the-leonardi.com
Now this is one niche that most people would overlook. His specialty is bespoke headwear accessories, well-loved for its high artistic value. Yunardi also designed a pair of wings that took flight in the 2016 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show - a good milestone for his 20th year in the industry. Oh, and he also created buzz when Katy Perry sported his shoe design in her Chained to the Rhythm music video.
This short list is by no means, an accurate detailed description of every single fashion designer in the nation. There are plenty of other talents waiting for the spotlight. Hope this post provide you with a little insight on Indonesian fashion designers. Next up will be Indonesian fashion business!
References:
Art Cocktail. (2015). Dress Art - Tex Saverio’s artistic dresses. Retrieved from http://artcocktail.mallforarts.com/2013/11/dress-art-tex-saverios-artistic-dresses/
Coconuts Jakarta. (2016). Victoria's Secret Fashion Show lifted by wings from Indonesian designers Tex Saverio & Rinaldy A Yanuardi. Retrieved from https://coconuts.co/jakarta/lifestyle/victoria-secrets-fashion-show-lifted-wings-indonesian-design ers-tex-saverio-rinaldy/
Dirgapradja, S. (2015). Hian Tjen, sebulan bisa produksi hingga 30 baju untuk calon pengantin. Retrieved from https://www.fimela.com/fashion-style/hian-tjen-sebulan-bisa-produksi-hingga-30-baju-untuk-calo n-pengantin-150818y.html
Jakarta Fashion Week. (2016). Toton Januar. Retrieved from http://www.jakartafashionweek.co.id/designer/Toton-Januar/
Life Inspired. (2016). 10 Indonesian fashion designers to know. Retrieved from http://litvchannel.com/10-indonesian-fashion-designers-to-know/
Magazine by Berrybenka. (2013). What to wear for Jakarta Fashion Week. Retrieved from http://magazine.berrybenka.com/what-to-wear-to-jakarta-fashion-week/
Manual. (2016). On the label: Toton. Retrieved from http://manual.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/On-the-label-Toton-2.jpg
Pinterest. (2017). Pinterest. Retrieved from https://i.pinimg.com/originals/21/d4/41/21d441205e1ccb5fa7d9aa2f1b6949d1.jpg
Setia, U. (2016). Peggy Hartanto, desainer sukses Forbes dengan karya mendunia. Retrieved from http://lifestyle.liputan6.com/read/2446614/peggy-hartanto-desainer-sukses-forbes-dengan-karya -mendunia
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